| Playa
del Carmen, MX - Have you ever thought of what the word "paradise"
truly means? Definitions vary, but from what I was taught to believe,
it was a place that had warm weather, sandy beaches, a big body of
water, and lots or pretty girls. OK. That sounds pretty much on target,
but defining what it means and actually experiencing it are two different
things. Let me explain.
ONE
TICKET TO PARADISE
On a whim, I decided to fly to Tulum, Mexico, which is two hours
south of Cancun on the Yucatan peninsula. As the initial "leg"
of my world tour, I wanted a place to jet-off to for some reflection
upon recent events and, more importantly, some free time away from
my wicked social schedule to plan my BIGGER trip abroad.
From
what some friends had told me, Tulum WAS paradise. Quiet beaches,
slower time, and beautiful chicas. This sounded exactly like what
I needed, so I booked my flight and prepared for the trip.
Wanting
to save money, I opted for a very bizarre set of connections to
keep costs down. They were as follows: Portland to Minneapolis,
Minn to Chicago, Chicago to Anchorage, Anchorage to Houston, Houston
to Mexico City, Mexico City to Madrid, Madrid to Houston, and Houston
to Cancun. Dont ask me how airlines calculate this nonsense. The
beauty is, I spent only $4100 and spent only five days flying to
get there. And I saved $150 over the cost of a direct flight. I
must be a genius!
Now,
you may have heard rumors that traveling in Mexico is dangerous.
Nonsense.
First
off, the very primitive landing strip in Cancun required THREE landing
attempts by our Captain who, in a vain attempt to calm us after
the first two failed, went into a Captain Kirk-esque impersonation.
"Good afternoon (pause) everyone (pause). This is your (pause)
captain speaking (double pause). Well be making one (pause) more
(pause) pass at the (pause) runway and then (pause), well land.
Thank you (pause) for flying with us."
Everyone
on board made that left-looking squint with their eyes and then
scrambled for the airsickness bags. I wasnt sure if they were grabbing
them out from a fear of death or the fear of another bad impersonation.
After
successfully landing, I opened up the overhead bin and, not paying
attention to the rules ("Be careful as some items may have
shifted during flight"), an entire set of luggage flew out
of the compartment, smacking the heads of an old couple sitting
behind me.
At
first I laughed, but after realizing I had just knocked both of
them unconscious, I said, "They were sleeping anyway!"
and ran out of the plane as quickly as I could. This proved to be
a good thing as I managed to avoid the perfunctory departing salutations
from the crew.
Once
inside the airport and skillfully outsmarting the authorities with
my disguise (I quickly attached my Castro-esque beard), I got in
the very long cattle line to go through customs. If you have ever
been in Mexico, youll recall they have a very unusual system for
checking you through customs; using the following highly complex
system that, no doubt, incorporates some kind of sophisticated logistics
system tied to an Oracle database. This is how it works:
You
approach what appears to be a mini traffic light. There is a button.
You press this button. If the green light activates, you go through
with no questions asked. However, if the evil RED light comes on,
youre screwed. You are now, my friend, going to have ALL of your
things examined by Damien, the pissed-off Rottweiler.
The
frat guy in front of me was one of these unfortunate souls. As he
stood there trying to appear tight in front of his jock friends,
his coolness turned to extreme fear as Damien sniffed deeper and
deeper into his bag. Suddenly, the dog got overwhelmingly excited,
barking and rummaging through the duffle like hed lost his mind,
ripping through the jocks clothes in search of something I (and
everyone else standing there in equal fear) suspected were drugs.
When the beast emerged instead with a pair of hot pink panties,
everyone in customs laughed. The jock merely came to tears.
"What
are these for, amigo?" said the guard.
All
the jocks friends started laughing and taunting him, too. "Yeah,
Steve, what ARE those for?"
Steve
retorted. "They are my girlfriends, man! She must have put
them there as a joke, dudes!"
I have
never seen someone so big become so small so fast.
After
this terrifying scene, I had the good fortune of a green light and
strode through customs unharmed.
Taking
a transport into overly saturated Cancun, I arrived at the bus station
around 6:45 P.M. Keep in mind that I had been traveling QUITE a
long while and was feeling a bit whipped, but wasnt going to let
a little sleep deprivation hold me back from my destination. After
the 7:00 bus never arrived, the 8:00 bus left at 8:30. Hell, I didnt
care, I had no schedule.
Finally
on board the luxury coach liner, I was en route to Tulum in the
middle of the darkness, not a soul speaking English and, having
heard all sorts of horror stories about bandits stopping buses in
the rural parts of Mexico, I locked my bag to my person. Now, dont
ask me what benefit this would have done had we been held up. I
mean, with my bag attached to me, I was now not only ripe material
for thieves, but a much better hostage.
While
traveling on this bus, I thought I was smart studying my little
Spanish language guide and getting familiar with the basics (most
of which I already knew). Little did I know that it was Spanish
for Spain, not Mexico. But aint it all the same?
Arriving
in the very remote Tulum, I meddled around a bit, and found my way
to the Weary Traveler. "Hola," said the tan man. "Hello"
I replied. He was from N. Carolina and, thankfully, spoke in the
Kings English. I asked him about a place to stay nearby. Rather
than just give me the name of a hotel, he told me that two people
had been murdered, another raped, and one robbed of all his possessions
within the last two days, but that there were "plenty of safe
places to stay in." Not exactly encouraging, I will say, but
I wasnt about to go back to Cancun. "Try el Hotelito. They
are down just a block."
Off
on my way, I moved down the street in an Ozzy Osborne paranoia,
where nay swifter a man moved to his destination. The hotel manager
greeted me warmly. "Hola, Buenos noches!" I returned my
best "Hola!," and made my first attempts at a broken sentence
in Spanish. "Habitacion for uno?" I eeked out, very poorly
I might add. He sort of stood there stupefied, but knowing I was
obviously looking for a room, kindly said "Si" and escorted
me upstairs.
The
room was nice and looked very relaxing after such a long day...hell,
it even had a shower, which I was soon to learn was a luxury in
these parts.
"Bueno"
I said, and he left me be.
After
taking a shower and hanging my bag from the bedposts, I took a brief
walk out onto the balcony and looked up at the black of night. The
stars radiated in their brilliance and I thought I had found paradise.
Back in the room, I laid down to get some rest. "At last,"
I thought to myself. "I can sleep."
"AHA!"
said the gods. For within three and one half minutes of shutting
my eyes, a very loud BOOM BOOM BA BOOM BOOM BOOM came pounding through
the streets outside in the form of some excessively loud rap music.
I didnt know it at the time, but there was a weeklong Mayan festival
going on. Part of the festivities were riding around on a double
decker bus going up and down the main drag of town (a mere half
mile strip) over and over and over again...with very loud music
blasting out some very crappy, distorted speakers. This went on
for about an hour more and finally ceased around 1:00 A.M.
At
last, I fell prey to unconsciousness, and was ever the better for
it.
IN
THE MORNING, I took a taxi to the beach, where I found a cabana
for $22 a night. Lets just say that my limited Spanish was not
too helpful here, for the caretaker of the establishment spoke absolutely
no English. (Hey, I wouldnt either, if I lived here.)
Fortunately,
through sign language and the power of simple words, he showed me
the cabana and the facilities. It was amusing to discover that the
shower was a large barrel of water that you dipped a big cup into
and poured over your head. "Wow, this truly is paradise!"
That aside, I was a mere 150 feet from the vast ocean, with endless
sandy beach and not a person in sight.
Though I had no locking door and my suspicions were at an all-time
high, I didnt care. This had to be the best $22 a night anyone
could spend.
The
absence of a locking door and the knowledge of murderers and thieves
seeking out easy prey put my animal instincts at an all time high.
To protect myself, I rigged several ingenious boobie traps. This
included rigging up some wire to the flimsy handle of the door and
attaching it to a glass of water balanced above it (hey, i saw Greg
use this trick on the Brady Bunch) which, if entered upon by an
unsuspecting assailant, would drop upon their head! There were a
few more security measures employed, but too minute to mention.
Feeling
secure, I laid down to sleep listening to the sound of the ocean.
"At last," I thought, "paradise."
About
3:00 in the A.M., I awoke to some rummaging noise outside. "Crap,"
I thought, "What if I have to deal with a real criminal?"
I slowly snuck out of my hanging bed and walked to the screen window.
As the moon shown brightly, I could see that it was the rustling
of some tree branches in the wind.
Relieved,
I had an incredible urge to take care of business, so I opened the
door to take a break outside. "AHA!" said the gods again,
for now I had a large glass of water upon my head. "Damnit!"
was all I could muster and, after toweling off, headed back to slumberland.
The
next day I headed back into the pueblo (town) to find a local eatery
that I had been referred to by friends. After filling up on tacos
I inquired with the owner about the murders reported the night before.
"There was only ONE that I know of, and that was from some
debris falling off that damn Russian space station. Hit some chico
(boy) clean on the head and sent him off to heaven. Sad, but true."
Feeling
better at this news, I went about my business and found a different
place to stay at. A bit more luxurious and not so remote, I found
the place that became Augi central for the next seven days. Called,
"Diablo el Loco," (which I think means "The Crazy
Devil"), it was the perfect mode for paradise.
Now,
this story could go on for days, but you have neither the time nor
patience to read a novella. So, Im going to cut to the chase and
give you the rundown.
Tulum
was great. It was beautiful. People were friendly, the ocean was
magnificent, and if you could only see the stars at night...so clear
the sky, you could penetrate the deep of the universe and even see
the Milky Way.
I met
Germans. I met Brooklynites. I even met with a case of Montezumas
revenge. More importantly, I met with the realization that paradise
is not a place, a person, a thing...it is a state of being, or a
place in your mind. For, as someone once said, "It is the mind
that makes a hell of heaven, or a heaven of hell."
NOW
THE QUESTION
So, I answered what I believe is the true meaning of paradise. The
question to you is, which of the facts in my story are true? Did
the following things happen or not?
1.
Did Augi have a Castro beard disguise?
2. Did the planes captain really speak like Capt Kirk?
3. Did Augi spend only $22 a night on the Caribbean ocean?
4. Did a rottweiler flail a pair of panties around in customs?
5. Did Augi really go through that many connections to get to Cancun?
6. Did space station debris truly hit some kid on the head?
7. Did Augi have to take cold showers?
If
you guessed YES to number 7, you were right. As for the rest...
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